Tuesday, December 23, 2014

November in Timu...

...was full. We stayed busy with visitors, activities, and daily life alongside the Ik. As is my (Amber) way, a picture collage will tell the story of our month.
Since most Ik girls are working hard alongside their mothers, they don't come to play often. These two little boys have become very good friends to our girls and come almost every day (although I suspect lunch has something to do with it). Janet & Lemu were teaching them chalk-drawing.
My girls love babies and hold them at every opportunity. This baby was only two weeks old. The mothers come to me for medicine, soap and baby clothes.
A crippled friend of ours miraculously delivered a healthy child. We're praising God that she didn't have complications in the village setting. 
Janet & Lemu's half-sister, Akello Prisca, is now five months old.
The three sisters together during an unexpected visit. 
Janet & Lemu with their mother (center) and two aunties.
Sadly, they also lost a cousin a few weeks ago. The child was stillborn, but the family still held a ceremony for her.
We found this critter in the leaves. He's quite cleverly camouflaged. 
Naan is a yeast bread that I can cook on the stovetop. I've been making it weekly instead of other bread. One week I made a triple batch to take to friends. 
Good Entebbe friends came for a visit to Timu. You know they're good friends when they're willing to drive 14 hours to see you...not just anybody will do that! 
An Abyssinian roller we spotted on a drive to Kaabong from Timu. Terrill enjoys bird-watching.
We've had some incredible holiday meals with our Kaabong friends already. Even though we're in Karamoja, things can still be festive. 
Our Kaabong buddy Memphis had a birthday last month. The girls and I baked him a really big cookie. I'm teaching them at a young age that the way to a man's heart is through his stomach! (Not that they're chasing boys yet!)
Slumber party fun with Kaabong friends Victory and Abby.
Before we left Timu in early December, we had a little Christmas celebration of our own. This is our second Christmas with the girls and they enjoy making Jesus a birthday cake. 
Their Great Grandma Doris had sent early Christmas presents so they could open something in Timu. They were delighted to find new babies. See below...they are both devoted mothers. 

We are currently staying at a friend's house in Entebbe. The neighbors have little boys who, even better, have little bikes. After just one day, Janet was riding a two-wheel bike easily. She's a natural athlete.
Lemu excitedly found a tiny bike is getting used to the feel of it with training wheels. She says she'll move up to a two-wheeler when she turns five (next April). 
Being silly as they wait at the doctor's office. 
It's late and we're tired, so we'll close this post and say good-night.

Saturday, December 20, 2014

Is there a doctor in the building?

Three years ago I (Terrill) decided to begin a doctoral program in linguistics. The topic of my project would be Ik grammar. Describing Ik grammar was something I was going to do anyway as part of my SIL/Wycliffe job, so I thought I could kill two birds with one stone and get a degree for my work.

That was three years ago. In the meantime, I worked on the grammar on and off as opportunity allowed. There were a few major interruptions such as a furlough, getting Janet & Lemu, and building a new house. But thanks to consistent favorable circumstances, Amber's wonderful help, and good ol' fashioned hard work, I was able to finish writing the grammar this past July.

Last Saturday night we dropped the girls off at our friend and SIL colleague Grace Halland's house. Grace also has two adopted Ugandan children, and they were already good friends with our kids. Because we couldn't get visas for Janet and Lemu to either the US or Europe, originally Amber was going to have to stay behind while I went to defend my dissertation in Holland by myself. But a few friends encouraged us to 'do what we have to do', and Grace kindly offered to keep the girls. God bless her! Needless to say, Amber and I were just a little bit excited about having a little jaunt to Europe without children...just like olden times!

But it was actually quite hard leaving the girls. We put them to bed at Grace's house, but when they heard the vehicle start up, they both started crying inconsolably. Grace got Amber on the phone with them, and she managed to calm them down. Then we headed back to where we were staying, managed to get about four hours of sleep, and were at the airport by 3:30 am. Our first short flight was to Nairobi, Kenya. We got to see the sun rise on the way:

Sunrise heading East toward Nairobi
 After a short layover in Nairobi, we were on our way again, this time in the direction of Amsterdam. The airplane on this second flight was brand spankin' new...even the fabric of the seats smelled clean! We normally fly to and from Africa at night, so being able to see outside the plane on a clear day was a real treat! We flew north along the Rift Valley and were able to even see the familiar mountains of Ikland, which was really cool:

Mt. Morungole in the distance, which hosts many Ik villages

From there we continued north over South Sudan, Sudan, and Egypt---over the great Sahara desert. Something that really struck me this time was how much of the Earth's surface is still completely uninhabited by human beings: vast stretches of harsh landscape where perhaps only hunters and herdsmen and warriors traverse. Getting this renewed global perspective from 37,000 feet helped me gain a new understanding of both the uniqueness and limitations of our little lives among the Ik.

Popcorn or cotton-ball clouds over the Sahara
After that came the beautiful, blue Mediterranean and then the mountains of southern and central Europe. Another thing that struck me this time was that even though so much of Africa is vast, remote, and relatively 'untouched', so is much of south and central Europe! For hours we flew over mountains, where immense stretches of land still lay comparatively unspoiled by human activity.

Snow-capped Alps behind a veil of slipstream
When we landed in Amsterdam, we were met by our friend Anne, a Ugandan/Rwandan who now lives in Holland, and Sara Petrollino, another Phd student in linguistics at Leiden University. We were going to stay at Anne's home, so she drove us back to Leiden where we got settled in and treated to a delicious supper with the whole family. Anne, her husband Isaac, and their children Abigail and Mark really have become dear friends; they blessed us in so many ways. We can't thank them enough:

Dinner with the Neutebooms
This was my third and Amber's second time to Leiden. Leiden is a much smaller and quieter town than Amsterdam. But it has many charming Dutch characteristics like canals, bicycles everywhere, old buildings that lean outward, nice restaurants, etc. Though we still love Leiden, I think we are getting past the 'honeymoon' stage of cross-cultural adjustment. One thing that kind of grated on us this time was how many people would barrel past you on bikes at break-neck speeds. Another thing---especially compared to Uganda---was that everyone always seemed to be in a big hurry, hustling and bustling around like bees in a beehive. But one thing we did appreciate especially this time was how incredibly efficient and orderly everything is there. It must be a Germanic thing!

Amber and I spent a fair amount of time just walking around the city, taking in the sights and doing a little shopping here and there. Nighttime walking was fun with all the Christmas lights on:

Old World cobblestone streets

A main canal at night
Enjoying the winter-time, festive feel
If these ancient walls could talk...
If you know me and Amber, you know we love to eat. In fact it's one of our primary ways of being a tourist: We are food tourists! This time we sampled some authentic Dutch pannenkoeken, some Thai fast food, and some aMAZing Greek food:

A savory pancake at the Pannenkoekenhuis
Amber relishes a hot chocolate with REAL whipped cream
Cheap and HOT Thai food
A Greek feta gyro to DIE for
Of course besides doing some Christmas and grocery shopping and seeing friends, the main reason we went to Leiden was so I could defend my thesis and earn a doctorate degree. The time of waiting that had been counted in months and weeks was now down to days, hours, and minutes. In the US, doctoral defenses are longer and can theoretically lead to a 'pass' or 'fail' for the candidate. But in Europe, the defenses (called 'promotions') are more of a ritual, ceremony, and formality. It is not pass or fail per se. So at least I didn't need to worry about that. But at the same time, I didn't want to look like an idiot or make my supervisor ('promotor') look bad. I definitely felt the pressure building.

I managed to suppress the stress and nervousness pretty well up to the last day (Tuesday) by just not thinking about the event very much. But by Tuesday, the gravity of what I was about to go through began really weighing down on me. I didn't feel sweaty or shaky, nor was my heart beating fast. No, the stress I felt was deeper, almost beyond bodily sensation. Only I did have acid pouring into my stomach in large amounts. I tried to maintain composure by sticking to routines like a morning quiet time and my normal exercises. The hours slowly ticked by. I went out and rented my $90 tuxedo. I came back and crawled back into bed (Amber was out) because I felt weak and didn't know what else to do. Finally it was time.

The defense was held in the Academie Gebouw (Academic Building), a medieval church that was converted to serve as the first Protestant Dutch university when Spanish Catholic rule was thrown off. The setting was beautiful but imposing. In a room filled with paintings of dead men (former university presidents), I would defend my work:

Standing at the entrance to the Academie Gebouw
A cloud of scholarly witnesses
My lovely wife and I got dressed for the occasion and walked over to the Academic Building, accompanied by our Dutch SIL friend Patrick Rietveld who had kindly accepted my invitation to the defense. The long-awaited moment was at hand:

I was proud to be escorted by this beautiful woman!
Look closely: We don't dress up like this often!
Once we got to the building, my second 'paranymph', Sara Petrollino, escorted us into a waiting room. (In the Leiden tradition, each doctoral candidate is flanked by two 'paranymphs'. Their role is much like a best man or bridesmaid in a wedding. In ancient Greek culture, the paranymphs were angelic beings who escorted the bride to her wedding chamber. Rather bizarrely, the Leiden tradition is that the doctoral candidate is married to the University in the defense ceremony---Go figure. I'm not making this stuff up.) As we waited, Sara and Amber tried to assure me everything would go well. I didn't believe them. I could see my 'opposition committee' members arrive one by one in the hall and go into another room where they discussed the questions they were going to ask me.

Waiting nervously
After a few minutes, the Pedel came into the waiting room and instructed me in how things were going to go. I had to address the opposition members as hooggeleerde opponens 'highly-learned opponent' if they were professors and zeergeleerde opponens 'very learned opponent' if they were not. It was very important that I got this distinction right...as if I needed anything else to worry about! Then we were ushered into the hall where we were seated with our backs to the audience and facing the front, across the desk where the committee would take their seats:

The academic 'altar of sacrifice'
Then came the opposition and sat down. The Rector Magnificus officially opened the proceedings, congratulating me on my hard work and handing the floor over to the first professor. One by one, six members asked me 1-2 questions each. I tried my best to answer them, but my brain felt like mush and my tongue like lead. It was a terrible sensation. To my own ears, my answers sounded like they belonged to a child. Amber assures me I did fine, so I'll choose to believe her! I gave a reasonably coherent answer to most of the questions, but one of them shut me up and down at the same time. One professor asked me what 'blind spots' my Christian faith might have created in my view of the Ik. I paused for a moment, stammered out a few disjointed (but honest) thoughts, and ended by saying "I don't know." I felt like a complete imbecile, but the professor thanked me sincerely for demonstrating intellectual honesty. So I guess if it comes to character versus intellect, I should be glad that my honest character was shown if nothing else! Time was in slow motion, but as I was halfway through a sentence, the Pedel came in quietly and then announced in a loud voice, "Hora est!". And that marked the end of the defense.

The opposition went out to deliberate on whether to grant me the degree. They came back in and announced that I had earned the doctorate! When the Rector said his was the privilege of being the first to call me 'Doctor', I couldn't help but smile a little. Then they handed me my diploma, and my supervisor closed with a 'eulogy' in which he said many kind things. I don't remember all of it, but one thing I do remember is that he said he was impressed with my love for the 'beauty of the word'. This made me feel good because I had really striven to make the Ik grammar simple, elegant, easy and delightful to read...in short: beautiful. And I wanted to do that because I believe God values beauty and I wanted to highlight the beauty of the Ik language and confer upon it the dignity it deserves. I may not be the sharpest linguist tack in the drawer, but I do love languages and the people that speak them.

My two guardian angels

Receiving my diploma
And so that was that! After seven years of learning, three years of writing, and one hour of grueling interrogation, I was awarded a Doctor of Philosophy degree in linguistic science. Thank God! It was He who enabled me to do it and provided all the needed resources and opportunities. He used others, most especially my dear wife Amber, to push me along toward that goal. Amber and I earned this together.

I now have a Phd. So what? Stay tuned for another blog post soon in which I'll reflect on the significance of this for me, my family, and the Ik project. But from the beginning, I determined not to be defined by academic degrees. Just because I can write a grammar doesn't mean I can do anything else. Just because because I could add 'Phd' after my name doesn't mean I am wise or loving. Therefore, please remember that in answer to the question "Is there a doctor in the building?", when it comes to me, the answer is 'yes' only if it's someone's grammar that needs to be analyzed and described.

Saturday, November 29, 2014

November memories

Life has been routine since the last time we wrote. It is still rainy season in Timu and we're so thankful for a bigger house where the kids can play inside without driving us bonkers. 

We are helping a few young men start up small businesses and pray that these businesses will thrive and support the families of these men for years to come. Pray for Lopeyok Simon who is starting an apiary (grouping of bee hives) for a honey business. Pray for Tengan Emmanuel who is opening a small shop in Timu to sell basic goods that the Ik can not get otherwise. 

As always, some photos:
Local Ik were growing cabbages bigger than my head. 
Bounty of the earth after a market-run. 
The girls discovered a gold beetle. They are quite interested in bugs at this age.
Trying to picture-read. Janet will turn six next month and start Kindergarden soon. 
Terrill trying a local millet drink from a local cup.
A visit with the midwife who begs me often for knit caps.
Practicing the art of carrying goods on their heads.
Shadow fun
Their favorite toy: the sandbox. They are making model villages out of sand and sticks.
Little boys throwing a spear through a small, round hoop to practice for hunting one day.
A new village going up.
An evening walk to collect wildflowers.
Timu beauty 

We won't be at home for Christmas, so we put the tree up early and have listened to Christmas music for a week already. The girls love the lights and the festive mood of the tree.